Head to the hills
Words by Charmaine Yabsley A wise man once said: “It is beautiful to talk about beautiful things and even more beautiful to silently gaze at them.” After a weekend at Heartwood Farm in the Byron Hinterland, we agree. There’s something to be said for quiet and hidden. Especially when it comes to the perfect getaway. Behind Byron Bay, just a short, picturesque drive, past the quirkiness of Bangalow lies the mostly unknown and undiscovered tiny town of Federal. Beloved by locals and those in the know, it has a quintessential rural Australian soul. Home to the renowned Doma Café and historic Federal General Store, this green and lush hinterland is ripe for exploration. It’s here we find ourselves one wintery weekend. After a week of wild and rainy weather, the grasses and forests glisten with dewdrops and vitality, an energy which fills us up with its natural beauty. We only left the Gold Coast forty minutes ago, but we have been transported to another land, as we follow the long and windy gravel driveway past the owner’s cabin and arrive at Heartwood, our cottage for the next two nights. It’s picture perfect: pale grey batten walls, white window frames and old-fashioned wooden shades. Forget another land, we’re in another century. The owner’s three dogs excitedly greet us, offering up frisbees and balls to play. Our children immediately scatter, to play with the dogs and explore the flat spaces nestled amongst the 100 acre cattle farm. We take it more slowly, to appreciate the sweeping valley and hillside views, the pockets of settlements dotted with similarly-styled cottages. The trees line the horizon in a 360 degree perimeter – beyond this lies the glistening shores of Byron. But for now, the crowds and traffic are far away; here, we follow the grassed-edged pathway, past the outdoor firepit, to the front door and take a deep breath: we’ve arrived. The views are breathtaking, but the interiors of Heartwood Farm cottage give the outdoors a run for its money. Decorated with care, imagination, and a nod to its federal and antique roots, the navy, green and white decor is fresh, breezy and immediately welcoming. The large kitchen has everything you would need, with a large fridge, dishwasher, stove and kitchen window overlooking the gardens. There is a separate living room with large TV and family games, and the master bedroom has a delicious nook carved out of the space – perfect for reading in the afternoon setting sun. The second bedroom is equally large and comfortable, and sits next to the immaculate bathroom, complete with rolltop bath. There are two balconies to choose from too – an embarrassment of riches. Furnished with greyed cane furniture, generously cushioned, the west deck is ideal for evening drinks, while the east balcony overlooks the other star of the property – the heated inground pool. Surrounded by well-tended gardens, decking and a safety fence, the round pool is deliciously warm, even on this cool winter’s day. When there’s so much space and stillness, where do you start your stay? We head down the back of the property, followed by the friendly dogs, to the Wilson River. Just 600 metres from the cottage, Craig, one of the the owners, has thoughtfully mown an easy-to-follow pathway. The track loops around to give visitors the full tour of the river and land. Heartwood’s other owner Nicole had thoughtfully told us to pack gumboots, and after the wet weather they came in handy for our explorations. The river is, the owner tells us, the perfect spot for swimming, fishing and lazy summer picnics. (There are rugs in the cottage to use or buy from Wandering Folk.) After a dinner of pizzas (Nicole also keeps the freezer stocked with locally-made pizzas which you can purchase, so there’s no need to leave the house. You can also buy wine, spirits and coffee from her supplies), we sparked up the fire. An evening by the roaring flames, roasting marshmallows and sharing stories and our weekend was off to the best possible start. A slow morning mist, tea on the east deck and we were ready for the day: the beaches of Byron beckoned. The town’s Saturday markets were on, so, eager to avoid the crowds, we headed to Wategos where the water was warm enough to swim and the beaches empty enough to enjoy some soccer and volleyball. Eager to spot some sea life, we took the walking track to the Byron lighthouse for some whale and dolphin sightings. After a day in the sun, relaxing, reading, swimming and eating, our short drive home was the perfect way to ease back into the beauty of silence. We headed to the west deck, poured a glass of wine and tucked into some local cheeses, olives and baguettes. We toasted to the beauty surrounding us and gazed upon the peaceful environs that had well and truly won our hearts. Heartwood Farm Byron Bay 498 Binna Burra Road, Federal NSW 2480, Australia +61 417 388 880 [email protected] www.heartwoodfarmbyronbay.com Where to eat Situated in the industrial corner of Byron, you’ll find a Trocadero of cafes, lifestyle and clothing stores – an unexpected oasis from the bustle of the main centre. Just opened, Nourishing Habitat is a restaurant is made up of three distinctive parts dedicated to local produce, community and sustainability: the café Commune, serves breakfast and delicious BBQ lunch from 7.30 to 3pm; transforming the space at night is Gitana (4pm till late, Wednesday to Saturday), the perfect place for an early evening feast of cheese, olives, hams and sardines, accompanied by local beers and chilled glasses of wine. The third and final section of the restaurant, Sefa Kitchen, to open in the last week of August, will offer a sit-down dining experience with live music, celebrating the rich flavours and vibrant culture of the Levantine corner of Middle East with a touch of Northern Africa. The menu will include the riches from an open wood
